France, stitched for a baby girl’s nursery! Pretty cherry blossoms from my friend, Emily, @reverypaperflora. She makes these out of crepe paper and everything she makes is unbelievable. 🌸 ...
The hardest part of being on vacation was being away from my cat, haha. He's not the most helpful assistant since he claims my crochet projects as his nap toys when I'm not looking. Can you guess what the next pattern I'm releasing is? ...
Does anyone else take any of their photos outside?
Pictured here: Me laughing at myself as a gust of wind tried to blow this feather off of the wall 😂
Happy Sunday! ❤️ ...
What is the creative process like in designing a new object? How do you know when an item is “sellable”? .
Often I start out as many do with a pen and paper. I’ll plan a general idea and figure it’s components and process to be made. But more often than paper and pen, is heading straight to material and getting hands dirty.
I prefer to work in the medium straight away as there can be a lot of idealism in drawing a 3D object. You can plan things in pen that won’t ever go the way clay/metal/etc will react, so I jump right in and sculpt a mental image with my hands. .
I typically make around 6-10 of the first rendition of an object to find the most efficient way of making the thing if it were to be something I’d like to do again. During this stage it’s also an easy point to decide after one if it won’t meet aesthetic/functional standards. .
Sometimes things go exceptionally well and the item will enter the rounds of production. Other times I’ll choose to make the thing a one off and only bring them to fruition if they can function correctly (and aren’t horribly unattractive)—ie, will it hold liquid as a cup? .
Mostly I’ve found it’s all about practice, being reasonably critical of your work, and then finally using the item you made within your own home to see how it functions when doing the job it’s intended to do. (More on this tomorrow.) #handandfire#maker#ceramics ...
Dark green pots with bright iron clad rims and hues that deepen as the glaze pools towards the lower parts of the vessels. I’ve always liked this glaze as it tends to be the one that interacts the most with the clay beneath it and I can’t wait to fire hundreds more pots with it in my new studio.
I’ve only made a portion of what’s shown here—I’ve wanted to build up stocks of the most basic shapes, mugs and bowls especially, so there’s enough for my first online shop update. Hopefully there’ll be dozens of each available, rather than just a small handful. Soon I’ll start making smaller groups of lined vessels, teapots, larger vases and new shapes. I’ve got pages of sketches of pots, some rough, some more developed and once I’ve thrown a core base of work I’ll move onto these and sharing it with you, if they’re any good.
I’ve always been a potter who likes to develop ideas and shapes. It’s why I throw the same things over and over again until I hit upon something I really like. I’ve definitely wanted to pursue finer work, thinner vessels and glazes and once kilns arrive and I begin the glaze testing I have planned. ...
There’s just one thing I miss about our old house... and it was having this in our living room. 😍 I can’t wait to show you all the yummies that are stacking up now!! 🙌🏻 ...
Following my last post, this one focuses on how I split the MARSHA model into manageable chunks to both reduce print time and allow me to print at different scales which may not fit on the Ender3 in a single piece.
I chose to use two different fastening methods for this model as it will allow me to add LEDs later on and get to the insides without damaging the finished print. I started off with a 6 piece clip mechanism to connect the first, second and third tiers together as once these are in place they're permanent. The videos show how these clips work and they're actually very satisfying to press together, however, they do get damaged with repeated use hence they are meant to be permanent once assembled.
To connect the base to the top three tiers I decided on a threaded section as it's easy to undo and is strong once in place. The print did require a little clean up for the thread to run smoothly, but after a few tries it now takes minimal effort to secure in place.
Finally, I combined the fastenings with the full MARSHA frame to produce more or less the finished product. You can see from @aispacefactory cross-section that I chose to split the model by floor heights so each printed section will be the equivalent of that level's living space. I'm really happy with how this has turned out and I can't wait to show you the next step.
@martian.daedalus@email@example.com grey PLA